This CROCHET Goldfish IS a Beginner Project!

Unlike real goldfish that are lots harder to keep than one imagines, seeing as they are sold for less than $1 at Petsmart, this crochet goldfish pattern is a total breeze to follow and the project itself can be completed in a few hours from start to finish. There’s also no sewing pieces together, you start at the nose and work straight through to the tail all in one go.

So instead of stressing about why goldfish are not easy fish to keep in aquariums, why not crochet yourself a school of goldfish today!?

Materials Needed:

Worsted weight yarn
3mm crochet hook or the size hook needed to get the stitch density required. Remember, with amigurumi you will in general size down your hook. This ensures that your stitches are tight, eliminating any holes so you won’t see the stuffing and it won’t come out.
Polyfill
Tapestry needle for weaving ends and stitching eyes

Abbreviations

Mr: Magic Ring. For detailed instructions on how to master the magic ring quickly and confidently, check out my magic ring tutorial, complete with step by step pictures on how to make a magic ring in crochet. You can also watch this Magic Ring YouTube tutorial.
Sc: single crochet
Inc: Increase by sc twice into the next stitch
InvDec: Invisible decrease: insert the hook into the front loop of the next two stitches. Pull yarn through both loops and complete a single crochet.
Ch: Chain
Sl st: Slip stitch
Pm: Place marker, replacing it each time you loop back around. This helps you to count rounds and gives you a starting point to count stitches for each round.
Scblo: single crochet into back loop only

Crochet Goldfish Pattern

Round 1: sc 6 (6 stitches)

Increase Time

Round 2: inc 6 times (12 stitches)

A Pattern: Increase One Round and Then No Increase on the Next

Round 6: *sc 2, inc, repeating from * 6 times (24 stitches)

Round 8 – 15: sc around (24 stitches) (8 rounds). When I am counting rounds I always lose track and forget how many rounds I have completed. Counting is hard, y’all! To ensure I stitch the correct number of rounds I use something as simple as my notes app or maybe something like this online counter. There are of course special crochet round/row counters but sometimes simple is the best way to do it. Why make things extra complicated?

Decreases

Decrease time. For amigurumi decreases, it’s best to use an invisible decrease. You do this by picking up just the front loop of the next two stitches. Then, with three loops on your hook, single crochet into those loops. The result is a nearly invisible decrease. It looks neater than a more traditional sc2tog to decrease. Your fish should be a football-like shape at this point. There are a few decrease rounds before it’s time to stuff it and seam it up. The tail is made last.

Round 16: *sc 2, dec repeating from * (18 stitches)

This is a good point to turn your work inside out and weave in any ends you might have, especially the end of the magic ring. It’s important to secure the magic ring.

For the goldfish pictured on the left, I also changed colors after the head, so I wove in those ends too. Next we will stuff the goldfish before seamimg it closed. You cannot wait to weave in ends until the end of the project. So do it now!

Round 17: sc around (18 stitches)

This is a good time to stuff the nose and body of your fish. Stuff it about 3/4ths of the way full for now. We’ll put a bit more once we’ve decreased down to 12 stitches before seaming it.

A Note about Stuffing

When stuffing an amigurumi toy, the general rule of thumb is to overstuff. Your toy will take more polyfill than you think it will need, but even once you think it’s jammed in there really well, you might want to double check.

Why?

Polyfill gets compressed over time, and you’ve worked hard on your toy. You want your stuffed toy to keep its shape. So pack that stuffing in pretty well. Of course, if you like an end product that’s more squishy, by all means put less polyfill. But I personally like how overstuffed toys keep their shape and stand up better over time. So I go all out.

Last Bit of Decreasing

Stuff the fish now to as full as you want it. Remember that once you seam, you can’t put more stuffing in. So this is the last chance to put stuffing.

Fold stitches in half and seam closed with slip stitches. (6 stitches)

Tail of Two Fins

The tail is stitched in two fins, semi-detached from one another, but still no sewing them onto the body of the fish separately. It’s all done at one time.

Row 1: With the same yarn from the body of the fish, chain 12. Turn work. You can also change colors here like I did in the picture, but it’s not necessary.

Row 2: Sc into the 2nd stitch from hook. Sc 11 into the back loop only (11 stitches)

Attach tail to fish at the body with slip stitch, turn work.

By the way, the tail part is a little fiddly to work with. By far the hardest part of the pattern. But still beginner friendly, I promise. From this point on all the single crochets will be into back loop only to create a ridged looking fin.

Row 3: ch 1, scblo 9, ch 1, turn work

Row 4: ch1, scblo 9. Attach tail at the body with a slip stitch.

Row 5: ch 1, scblo 7, ch 1, turn work

Row 6: ch 1, scblo 7, attach tail at body with sl st.

2nd fin

The second fin of the goldfish is stitched so it’s detached from the first fin, but still anchored in the same spot so they overlap a bit at the center, making the goldfish look like a pretty fancy goldfish, if I do say so myself.

Row 7: ch 8, turn work

Row 8: scblo 7, attaching the tail at the body in the same spot you anchored the last scblo 7 from the other fin.

Row 9: turn work, ch1, scblo 7, ch 3, turn work

Row 10: scblo 9, attaching tail to the body, turn work

Row 11: ch1, scblo 9, ch 3, turn work

Row 12: scblo into 2nd loop from hook, and 10 more (11 stitches), attaching tail to the body at the last stitch of the seam.

Weave in any ends from the tail.

What Bubbly Eyes You Have

I stitch my eyes on following a tutorial from the Woobles site. It’s really easy so I am not going to make a separate tutorial from theirs. It works really nicely. I don’t like safety eyes because I think they look creepy but you do you. If you wanted to do safety eyes you’d need to attach them before you stuffed the fish.

Et Voilà!

You’re done!

The post Crochet Goldfish Pattern appeared first on Fae’s Journal.

Dory is a Blue Tang

The Blue Tang body shape is taller and skinnier, and the tail is not flowy at all. Since Blue Tang look so different from the other fish I crocheted, I set out to construct the body and tail shape of a Blue Tang. My results turned out so cute!

Abbreviations

sc: single crochet
scblo:
sl st: slip stitch
sts: stitches
pm: place marker
inc: sc twice into next stitch
dec: decrease one by inserting hook into front loop of next two stitches, pull yarn through both loops to complete 1 sc decrease
hdc: half-double crochet

Crochet Fish Pattern

Nose / Head

Using a magic ring, sc 6 into ring. Join with sl st to first stitch. Pull ring closed loosely. You can tighten it up more later and secure it with a tapestry needle

Round 1: pm in first stitch sc 6 (6 stitches)

• I find it helpful to place a marker (pm) in the beginning stitch of the round. It can be discarded later in the pattern

Round 2: inc 6 by sc 2 times into each of the 6 stitches. (12 stitches)

Round 3: 12 sc (12 stitches)

Round 4: inc 12 times (sc 2 into each stitch) (24 stitches)

• At this point your fish will be very circular, that’s okay! We will better establish the shape in a bit!

Round 5: sc into each stitch (24 stitches)

• Pause here to secure the magic ring tail with a tapestry needle.

Round 6: sc 1, inc 1 (2 sc into stitch) (36 stitches)

Crochet Fish Pattern Body

Round 7: sc 8, pm in stitch just worked, hdc 3 (this is the top of your Blue Tang and the start of its dorsal fin), sc 1, pm in stitch just worked (this stitch marker marks the end of the top of your Blue Tang), sc around. (36 stitches)

Start Decreases to Taper Body

Round 8: sc 5, dec 1 (insert hoop through the front loop of the next two stitches and then sc 1), sc1 pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc 9, dec 1, sc 1 pm, sc 3, sc 1 pm (this is the bottom of your fish), dec 1, sc 4 (32 stitches)

• If you find that moving too many stitch markers is bothersome, you can remove the marker that marks the start of the round at this point. We’ll count rows by the stitch markers that mark the top and the bottom of the fish.

Round 9: sc til marker, hdc 3, sc til 2 stitches before marker, dec 1, sc pm, sc 3, sc pm, dec 1, sc around (30 stitches)

Round 10-12: sc to marker, sc 1 pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, sc around replacing markers as you make the stitches. (30 stitches)

Round 13: sc to marker, sc 1 pm, hdc, sc 1 pm, sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc pm, sc 3, sc pm, dec 1, sc around (28 stitches)

Round 14-16: sc to marker, sc 1 pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, sc around replacing markers as you make the stitches. (28 stitches)

Round 17: sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc 1 pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc 1 pm, sc3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc around (24 stitches)

Round 18: sc around to marker, sc pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, sc around (24 stitches)

Stuff the Fish

• Pause here to stuff the body of the fish, shaping it so that it’s the shape you want. We are starting to decrease here toward the tail so you don’t have stuff it fully yet but it’s easier to manipulate the stuffing to look the way you want when the opening is larger. Tip: More stuffing makes a sturdier finished product.

Round 19: sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc 1 pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc to four stitches before marker, dec 2, sc 1 pm, sc 3, sc1 pm, dec 1, sc around (20 stitches)

Round 20: sc around to marker, sc pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, sc around replacing markers as you make the stitches. (20 stitches)

Round 21: sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc1 pm, hdc 3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc 1 pm, sc 3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc around. (16 stitches)

Round 22: sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc5 pm, dec 2, pm, sc 3, dec 1, sc around. (12 stitches)

Round 23: switch to yellow yarn for tail. dec 1, sc1 pm, sc3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc to two stitches before marker, dec 1, sc 1 pm, sc 3, sc 1 pm, dec 1, sc around. (10 stitches)

Tail Construction

Stuff the fish with more polyfill, since we’re about to make the tail. To start, move your stitch markers so they mark the center stitch on either side of the stitches. This marks the top and the bottom of the tail. and it is where we will make increases to form the tail’s triangle shape.

Round 24: sc around (10 stitches)

Round 25: sc to one stitch before marker, inc 1, sc pm, inc 1, sc to one stitch before marker, inc 1, sc 1 pm, inc 1, sc around (14 stitches)

Round 26: sc to one stitch before marker, inc 1, sc pm, inc 1, sc to one stitch before marker, inc 1, sc 1 pm, inc 1, sc around (18 stitches)

Stuff tail completely. Stitch closed with slip stitch across.

Round 27: sc to one stitch before marker, inc 1, sc pm, inc 1, sc to one stitch before marker, inc 1, sc 1 pm, inc 1, sc around (22 stitches)

Et voilà! Bravo! What a CUTE Crochet Fish!

With a tapestry needle, weave in any ends and stitch eyes (if desired).

Your crochet fish pattern should look something like this:

I post crochet patterns and crochet techniques on my blog.

The post Crochet Fish Pattern – Blue Tang appeared first on Fae’s Journal.

Abbreviations:

• Blo = Back loop only
• Ch = Chain(s)
• Hdc = Half double crochet
• Rep = Repeat
• Rnd(s) = Round(s)
• RS = Right side
• Sc = Single crochet
• Sl st = Slip stitch
• Sk = Skip
• Yo = Yarn over
• Fltr – Front Loop Treble Crochet Below
  • (Yo) twice, insert hook into the front loop only of the next stitch 3 rows below, proceed with treble crochet: yo and draw through a loop (4 loops on the hook), (yo and draw through 2 loops on the hook) 3 times.
• Hdc 3rd loop = Hdc into 3rd loop
• 3rd Loop = the back stitch of a Hdc

This pattern can be worked in three sizes:

Written in pattern: Small (M) (L)

Wrist (worked flat):

ch 6
sc5, Ch1 turn

Start Ribbing Repeat:

Row 1: hdc 5, ch1 turn
Row 2: sc blo 5, ch1, turn

Continue for ~11 (12) (13) repeats (this can be increased to make the cuff bigger.)

Notes About Sizing

• In the original I did 13 repeats of the cuff pattern.
• Child’s size or very small tiny handed person: 11 repeats
• Small adult: 12 repeats
• Large size: 13 repeats

The fingerless gloves pattern can be adjusted in this manner to fit larger hands.

Fingerless Gloves Body:

Turn inside out and join by slip stitch into loops touching each other to create an invisible join.

Turn back around to pick up stitches.

Pick up 25 (30) (35) stitches sc (A multiple of 5 can be used to adjust size of mitt).

You’re working in continuous rounds so you should mark the beginning of your round with a marker if needed.

Round 1: scblo
Round 2: scblo
Round 3: *fltr, skip the stitch that you made the fltr over, sc4 blo* until last four scblo.
Last four stitches: scblo 3, skip 1 stitch, scblo into top of the previous row’s fltr.

Note: In order to get the ladders to stack correctly as they go up the pattern, the fourth scblo of your stitch repeat needs to land on top of the previous row’s fltr. This is why you skip one stitch in this first stitch repeat round to get the stitches to stack up correctly.

This is the only time you have to do this to get the pattern to line up correctly.

Round 4: *fltr, skip the stitch that you made the fltr over, sc4 blo

Repeat Round 4 for approximately 16 rounds. You can do more rounds to have a longer mitt, or as little as you want.

Thumb:

Thumb Round 1: sc1 into full stitch, ch5, sc into full stitch, sc3 blo, fltr, *sc4 blo, fltr until end of round.

Continue to top band.

Top Band:

Hdc around 1 round
Hdc into 3rd loop for two more rounds.
Sc into 3rd loop for last round

Finishing

Fasten off and weave in ends. Et Voila! Your fingerless gloves are complete. I think this pattern is fairly straightforward but let me know if you have issues with it by commenting on the pattern on Ravelry.

This pattern is free for your personal use.

I’d love to see examples of your own fingerless gloves that you’ve made, so find me on Ravelry! I have a few more crochet and knit patterns here on my site.

The post Fingerless Gloves Crochet Pattern – Stacked Ladder Fingerless Gloves appeared first on Fae’s Journal.

But I Want to Buy The Actual Sweater

The sweater is called the Leth Waffle Sweater and can be found at the Swedish clothing site Sefr. However, the sweater itself was sold out nearly the moment the Vlive ended, because anything the members of BTS touch ends up selling out. Remember when Taehyung wore the cute paint palette pin at the airport and ARMY (BTS Fandom name for the uninformed) spent the next three months selling out the seller’s Etsy shop? I sure do because I was one of the ARMY vying for the pin. And I finally got it!

That Pattern Though

But I had to figure out the pattern for myself and I could tell it was a modified Old Shale stitch, so I’ve spent the last few days figuring it out. Below is the pattern for a dishcloth.

Materials:

Dishcloth cotton, knitting needles (I used US7) Lighter colors show the pattern better, in my opinion.

Stitches:

K = Knit
P = Purl
K2Tog = Knit 2 stitches together (makes a right leaning decrease)
YO = Yarn Over
Garter Stitch – Knit every row

Pattern:

Cast on 42 (I suggest using long tail cast on) (stitch pattern is multiples of 18 plus 6 stitches for the border)
Knit two rows garter stitch
Set up row:
K3, *(K2Tog) x 3 times, (YO, K1) x 6 times, (K2Tog) x 3 times * repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, K3

Stockinette repeat:

K3, P to last 3, K3
Knit all stitches
K3, P to last 3, K3
Knit all stitches
K3, P to last 3, K3
K3, *(K2Tog) x 3 times, (YO, K1) x 6 times, (K2Tog) x 3 times * repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, K3

Garter repeat:

Knit all stitches
Knit all stitches
Knit all stitches
K3, *(K2Tog) x 3 times, (YO, K1) x 6 times, (K2Tog) x 3 times * repeat from * to * until last 3 sts, K3

Continue alternating stockinette / garter repeats x 6, 7 or 8 times depending on desired length

Knit 3 rows garter stitch
Cast off

The post Modified Old Shale Dishcloth appeared first on Fae’s Journal.